Terminology

Apex

The highest point of a dart or a curve.

Armscye

The point on a pattern in which the sleeve is sewn.

Blend

Blending is a process of smoothing and shaping lines to create a smooth

transition from one point to another. Similarly, blending can occur

when connecting two separate lines or curves to create a pattern pieces.

An example of this would be connecting a bodice block to a skirt block

to make a dress. This is usually done using the common pattern making

rulers.

Bust Point

A designated place on a pattern that is generally used as a pivotal

point. For example; when moving a dart to a new location on a bodice.

Bias

A diagonal line across the grain of the fabric. A bias cut is generally

used in knits and has a desirable drape that fits closely to the curves

of the body.

Blocks

Pattern-making blocks generally refer to the individual pieces that

together create a sloper. Blocks do not contain seam allowances, hems,

or facings. Sometimes, block and sloper are used interchangeably.

However, in the apparel industry, there is a distinct difference.

Dart

Triangular elements of a pattern that when sewn enable a flat,

two-dimensional pattern piece to take shape on a three-dimensional

figure. Not all garments use darts. For example, knit wear does not

require as much built-in shaping as a woven fabric would need.

Dart Leg

Two lines that come together at a specific point to create a dart.

Dart Intake

The portion of the fabric between the dart legs to remove excess fabric and create shape.

Ease

The amount of extra fabric that is built into the pattern to allow the

garment to fix in a relaxed position.A woven pattern would have

positive ease, where a knit pattern would have negative ease.

Grading

The process of creating the sizing of a pattern.

Facing

An extra pattern pieces that is used to stabilize an area of a garment.

Facings are often used around curved areas such as neck and arm

openings.

Grain

The direction of the threads in a woven fabric, or the lengthwise, long warp threads.

Muslin

A plain weave, unbleached cotton fabric available in a variety of

weights. It is used to perfect the fit of a pattern before the slopers,

or final patterns are created. Muslins are used for fit and are commonly

torn apart or drawn on to reflect desired fit adjustments.

Notch

Symbols, or markings used on a pattern to indicate cutting lines,

joining points, hems, dart legs, CF (center front) and CB (center back),

etc. There are a lot of pattern markings and this is covered in the

pattern markings article. Single notches refer to the front of a pattern

and a double notch refers to the back of a pattern.

Sleeve cap

The curved top section of a sleeve that when on the body fits just over the shoulder.

Seam Allowance

The area added to a pattern to between the cutting line and the

stitching line allowing for a specific amount of extra fabric. The

amount of seam allowance differs for the home sewer and the apparel

industry. Leaving more seam allowance gives the home sewer more

opportunity to adjust fit after a garment has been constructed, whereas

in the industry, companies want to improve yield and therefore use less

seam allowance.

Sloper

Basic apparel patterns without style lines or seam allowance used at

the beginning of the pattern making process to create new styles.

Slopers are often used repeatedly. They contain all the necessary pieces

to create a new style. For example; a button down shirt would have a

front and back bodice, sleeve, cuff, placket, and collar. Slopers are

also called master patterns, foundational patterns, or standard

patterns.

Back

Trueing

A process in double checking that all measurement’s, seams, etc. are of equal length.