04:42

paper use a French curve ruler to draw

04:46

on your neckline

04:49

measure the distance from the end of the

04:51

neckline to the bottom of the waistline

04:53

divided by two and place a mark

04:59

will represent the bus line from the bus

05:02

line use your apex measurement and

05:04

extend the line out place a mark and

05:07

label that apex for instance mine is 4

05:11

inches

05:13

from the apex point extend a straight

05:16

line using a ruler the line must be

05:18

parallel to the centre front this will

05:21

represent the center leg of the

05:23

waistline dart at the waist line from

05:25

the fold measure in one and a quarter

05:27

inches place a dot and label it see

05:31

using your underarm seam measurement

05:33

extend the line up place a mark and

05:35

label it D and connect both points this

05:41

worksheet is on the website however I

05:44

want to review the numbers to give you a

05:46

clearer understanding of how we got the

05:48

one inch now for the demonstration

05:50

purposes I picked 26 and three quarters

05:52

of an inch as the waist measurement this

05:54

way I get a whole number for the dark of

05:58

course that's not going to be the case

06:00

for you and may be a little different or

06:02

you may get the one inch but the waist

06:05

measurement here is twenty six and three

06:07

quarters of an inch I've added half a

06:09

quarter of an inch for ease which gives

06:11

me 27 inches 27 inches is divided by

06:16

four to give me six and three quarters

06:18

of an inch which is the actual waist

06:22

measurement remember my draft was 8 and

06:25

3/4 I'm going to deduct the six and

06:28

three quarters which is my waist from

06:30

the draft to give me two inches two

06:33

inches is then divided by two which is

06:37

each dart leg to give me one inch one

06:40

inch is going to equate to each one of

06:44

my dart legs use the number from the

06:46

equation and place the mark from each

06:49

side of the apex line

06:52

now extend the line out to the apex

06:54

point from D extend the line for example

06:58

- two inches your corresponding

07:01

measurement is also linked below the

07:02

video

07:05

place a notch and label that e from D go

07:09

over a quarter of an inch place a mark

07:11

and label it F

07:21

from e go up two and a half inches place

07:25

a mark and label it G at the waistline

07:28

fold measure up the measurement obtained

07:31

from the waistline to the end of the

07:33

shoulder place the dot and label it H

07:41

half-an-inch place a mark and label it I

07:50

place the French curve ruler so it's

07:52

touching points FG and I placed in close

07:55

attention to how the French curve is

07:57

touching all three points and drawn the

07:59

armhole

08:02

place the ruler at points I and a

08:05

without connecting them from I measure

08:08

half of the shoulder plus one-eighth of

08:10

an inch for ease and place a mark

08:14

from a measure half of the shoulder

08:17

measurement plus one-eighth of an inch

08:19

for ease and place a mark connect both

08:23

points to the apex

08:28

use a ruler to connect points a and I

08:31

use a tracing wheel to trace the

08:34

shoulder line dart

08:39

open the draft and draw on the trace

08:41

line using a ruler now let's begin to

08:44

set up our back bodice

08:48

trace the waistline and underarm seen on

08:51

to the opposite side of the paper trace

08:55

the F cross mark

09:01

pencil in the waistline notch and

09:03

underarm seen pencil in EF cross mark

09:09

using the width of the back measurement

09:11

extend the line from the waistline and

09:13

one inch down from the top edge of the

09:15

paper

09:21

now connect the two points to create

09:23

your slope or block

09:30

trace the guideline from the front

09:32

bodice

09:35

pencil it in and label it guideline

09:38

label the straightedge CB

09:43

begin from the center-back waistline use

09:47

your back length measurement place a

09:48

mark and label it Jay

09:53

to determine the position and amount of

09:56

your centre-back dart do the following

09:58

find the distance of the first center

10:00

front dart use that measurement

10:04

from the center-back place the dot and

10:08

label it k this will represent the first

10:12

leg of your dart

10:15

centre-back waistline dart intake is

10:17

equivalent to that of the center front

10:20

dart intake once you've placed your

10:23

three marks extend a line from the

10:26

center dot making sure it's parallel

10:28

from the CB line

10:39

from J measured down a quarter of the

10:42

center-back length mark and label L from

10:46

L use your shoulder blade measurement

10:48

extend a line out can place a dot

10:51

from J extend a two-inch line and place

10:54

the mark

11:05

from that point go up two inches and

11:07

place another mark and label at em

11:13

is the French curve ruler to connect

11:15

both points and draw on the neckline

11:17

curve

11:19

completely open the draft and lightly

11:21

connect points em and I with a ruler

11:25

from em use one half of the shoulder

11:28

measurement plus 1/8 of an inch for ease

11:30

dot and label n for instance my shoulder

11:34

measurement is 5 so half of that is 2

11:37

and 1/2 plus 1/8 of an inch for ease

11:44

from n measure half an inch for the

11:46

shoulder dark dot and label Oh

11:51

Oh use half of the shoulder measurement

11:53

plus 1/8 of an inch for ease dot and

11:57

label P Connect n to the apex point

12:03

using the same line from the shoulder

12:06

blade go up 1 inch and place the mark

12:10

extend a line from the dot to Oh

12:15

crease the shoulder line dark towards

12:18

the armhole and trace then pencil in

12:21

with a ruler

12:24

place the ruler at L the shoulder blade

12:28

where it's intersecting with the

12:29

waistline and underarm seen draw a

12:32

broken line I'm using a red marker so

12:34

it's more visible

12:40

from that line come down one inch and

12:43

label it cue

12:47

place the French curve ruler so it's

12:49

touching points P Q and F the ruler must

12:55

touch all three points before you draw

12:57

on the line draw in using a heavy pencil

13:00

line

13:04

fold the draft as demonstrated and draw

13:08

one-inch line below the original

13:09

waistline cut away the excess

13:19

Crees either side of the underarms seen

13:21

the back and front darts please pay

13:24

attention to the direction of the

13:25

overlay the dart XS so it's folded

13:28

nearest to the side seen

13:36

with the draught pinned in place traced

13:39

through the dart underlays open the

13:42

draught and use a French curve ruler to

13:45

blend in the waistline

13:54

set up the ruler stoats touching the

13:56

front and back armhole place one notch

14:00

for the front bodice and two for the

14:03

back the two notches on the back sloper

14:05

should be half an inch apart carefully

14:09

divide and cut your sloper with a rotary

14:11

cutter or scissor as shown

14:25

all seams have to match before it's

14:27

tested in muslin begin by closing the

14:30

shoulder darts and tape the front and

14:32

back bodice side by side making sure

14:35

that the dart seams match blend away the

14:38

excess to zero with a pencil and a

14:40

curved ruler then carefully trim away

14:43

repeat with the side seams and the

14:45

neckline if necessary

14:48

truing helps to eliminate timely

14:51

adjustments once in muslin

15:01

you

15:23

place the bodice pieces right sides

15:26

together and pin as you would if you

15:28

were sewing along the shoulder line

15:30

blend with a pencil before cutting away

16:59

and my bodice is complete well not

17:02

really remember I still have to make

17:04

some adjustments before I could transfer

17:06

this on to oak tag or poster board our

17:08

bodies are three-dimensional so the

17:11

measurement didn't take account for the

17:12

curves that we have on our frame now

17:14

let's take a look at some of the issues

17:15

that you may encounter gaping in the

17:18

armhole section or even the neckline if

17:20

you're making the fitting adjustments on

17:22

yourself you may have to go through two

17:24

fittings however if someone is assisting

17:27

you you only need to go through one

17:29

carefully pin and smooth the excess on

17:31

only one side of the bodice

17:33

please remember that it's super

17:35

important that this bodice fits you like

17:37

a glove in the future I'll use this

17:39

template to make other design variations

17:41

because I'm doing the fitting on myself

17:44

I'll probably have to go through to test

17:45

fittings I took the excess from the

17:48

armhole on a new piece of patterned

17:51

paper draw in two grain lines using a

17:53

marker pin the center front or centre

17:57

back onto the grain line on the pattern

17:59

paper

18:03

the center line must perfectly match the

18:06

line on the pattern paper

18:23

once the center is perfectly pin

18:26

carefully smooth out the fabric and

18:28

continue pinning

18:39

once you've placed your muslin on two

18:41

oak tag or poster board please do the

18:43

following identify the sloper front or

18:46

back put your name the date the waist

18:48

the bust size the armhole notches the

18:51

apex top dart notches and grain line

18:54

must be included on the sloper

18:57

trace the muslin on to the poster board

19:00

or Oh tag without the seam allowance

19:03

include the darts the notches the apex

19:07

point and grain line

19:12

I've included a sample of the sloper on

19:15

my website if you're interested please

19:17

don't forget to subscribe because I will

19:19

be showing you how to do the sleeve

19:21

sloper and then from there we could

19:22

start really getting creative if you

19:25

have any questions please include the

19:26

timestamp with your comment I hope you

19:29

learned a lot from this segment and I

19:31

will see you guys next time bye bye