Pattern Drafting Variables

The Back Bodice

Find O: Measuring down from Top Line to mark O - 1", for over 38" bust 1½".

Find Bust Line: Measuring down from O for Bust Line: 8½" for Bust 36/38". Add or subtract ¼" for every 2" larger or smaller.

Find Neck Width: 2½" + ⅛" for Bust 36. Add or subtract ⅛" for each size larger or smaller.

Back Bust Line - Add 2" to Half Back Width for average sizes. A little less for smaller sizes. For larger sizes add up to 2¾".

Back Hip Point - For larger sizes make HP ½" or so less than ¼ hip measurement for CB.

The Front Bodice

Find the Shoulder Line: Measure down from O 1¾", for Bust 42" and over 1½".

Find the Base of Neckline: Measure down from O 3". This can be increased to 3¼" - 3½" for larger sizes.

Find the Shoulder Dart Width: For Bust 36" the dart width along the Shoulder is 3". Add or subtract ¼" for sizes larger or smaller.

Front Hip Line - For larger sizes make HP more than ¼ hip + 1½" to 2" from CF. Look for balance in the side seam between the back and front at Hip Level.

Find the True Waist: For larger sizes drop the Centre Front Waist Point up to 1" an up to ½" at the side seam.